Computer Repair and PC Support across the UK
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Member since 19th Aug 2008
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There are lots of hits on Google for the same problem. Start <a href="http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-system/0x81000101-shadow-copy-timeout-error-windows-7/e0114df2-332d-4ede-908f-3284eb6dcfa7" target="_blank">HERE</a> with a few tips from Microsoft.
My advice is to research your market before you part with a single penny. I have just sold 5 PC's on eBay a week ago and averaged about 10 quid per item. A couple of them were blisteringly fast and all of them were perfectly good, just cluttering my workshop up. If your research indicates that you can offload enough PC's to make a living at 10 pounds per unit whilst buying in new hard drives and spending several hours on each one installing the OS & drivers then go ahead. If you don't want to add Windows licences to your costs then Open Source Linux OS's like Ubuntu or Mint are your only option. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Linux_distributions
Brilliant; glad you got it restored. Now may be a good time to find some cloud or USB storage for those photos & files that are so precious.
It's possible that the laptop has a recovery partition that will wipe the existing installation and deploy a disk image that will reset it back to out-of-the-box factory condition. The recovery option is normally accessed by tapping a function key such as F8 or F5, sometimes a combination keystroke such as CTRL+F8 as the machine boots up. If you are lucky you may briefly see which key to press on the first black (POST) screen that appears as you switch on. Failing that check the documentation that came with the laptop. Once you get it running be sure to get a good antivirus installed.
Thank you for clearing up the mystery Kathryn. Unfortanate that PC World is your only fallback as the warranty falls to them, but Hey! they don't make anything from selling cheap so the only profitable thing left is "Aftercare". Frightening prospect!
To restore using the built-in recovery partition tap the "F8" key as the computer is booting up, then follow the prompts on screen to perform a full factory reset. Full instructions are on the Advent site <a href="http://www.adventcomputers.co.uk/restore-or-reinstall-windows-your-computer" target="_blank">HERE</a>
Hi Andrea, we have several professionals in the Liverpool area that can quickly and easily sort out your overheating problems. It's probably due to clogged vents in the heatsink. Just place a support request from the main page and a local partner will be in touch.
Are there any clues here?...... <a href="http://www.neolics.com/index.php?s=guides&p=1" target="_blank">http://www.neolics.com/index.php?s=guides&p=1</a>
If you're paying for service and not getting it (AOL? / TalkTalk?) go shout at them but don't come yelling at us for trying to help you for free. Troll!
TalkTalk supply every customer with a free wireless router. Have you tried using that?
Oh yeh. I see that now :-(
18.104.22.168 is in Ione, California, United States (95640)
Dodgy connection between wifi card and mainboard?
Usually indicates hardware failure but can be notoriously unspecific. Check you haven't dislodged any leads or cables inside the case; and check / re-seat RAM sticks & any cards inserted in PCI slots etc.
Use device manager to roll back to previous drivers.
Carolyn, we are agreed that your PC is suffering from major hardware failure so what is important is to try & preserve your precious data. DON'T attempt to start the PC as doing so may exhaust the last chance of recovery from your hard drive. DO ask for a visit from a PCIQ specialist to assess if there is any hope of saving your precious memories before they are lost forever.
Sorry to say it but it sounds like hard drive failure. You say your "life" is on this PC which is very bad news as all stored data will be lost unless you made backups elsewhere. There is a slim chance that one of our engineers can retrieve some data if you post a request for a visit on this site.
Hi Carolyn, I don't think there's a case for "overloading" a computer. When you say "whining noise" is that the fans? Also the "blue light", is that the hard drive activity light or just a power-on light? Does it make any bleeps and is there anything on the monitor? Be more specific and we may be able to assist :-)
I don't know this particular model but many laptops have a CMOS battery soldered to the mainboard, so it's very likely that you'll have to remove the case to get to the board to find the battery.
Hi Kevin. Personally I've never used one of these 3 dongles but as you can see these pages are stuffed with users problems, the normal response to these is to "seek help from 3". Your case leads me to suspect the wireless settings as the new dongle may be using a new technology that your Xbox isn't set to communicate with. If you still have your old dongle use it to connect and check what chennel etc. it is communicating on. Apart from the wireless channel there will be settings like "wireless b/g, b+g" etc so check those too. If you then swap to the new dongle and replicate those settings then you may have a chance of connecting the Xbox to it. Sorry if I'm talking rubbish :\
Thanks, I'm sure this will be of help to the "3 Dongle" community.
Righ click "Computer" from Start menu & choose £Device Manager". Your webcam should be listed there. Once you've opened it's properties (right or double click) you can check the drivers. It may be a case of rolling back to a previous driver, as sometimes windows updates will install stuff that doesn't work with your hardware :-(
Could it be that the built-in tv is analogue only? Or "analogue" is the current selection from the menu choice? If the reciever is analogue only then you won't be able to watch digital output. With a normal tv the simple solution is to obtain a freeview box or similar and feen the signal into your tv through that, but with an all-in-one combo like yours I doubt if that's possible.
Rather than struggle with the onboard network drivers you may find it more convenient to stick a new NIC in a spare slot?
The above message is pure spam and should be ignored by anyone reading these pages.
Your problem does not relate to the service provided by PCIQ, which is not an equipment manufacturer not bears any relationship to one. This forum exists solely to provide clues to those experiencing technical problems with the usage of their computers and has no responsibilty to replace anybody's faulty hardware.
Sorry that didn't catch all of the web address... http://www.microsoft.com/resources/documentation/windows/xp/all/proddocs/en-us/int_pr_mui.mspx?mfr=true
With XP you can change language and keyboard behaviour from the language bar. Look at this.... <ahref="http://www.microsoft.com/resources/documentation/windows/xp/all/proddocs/en-us/int_pr_mui.mspx?mfr=true">http://www.microsoft.com</a>
Hi Pamela. Please, if you want someone to help, you should open your request on a new 'thread' by posting a new message, to do otherwise makes it appear that you are merely responding to an existing post. One other matter; you really need to give much more detail of your problem icluding as an absolute basic, the name and model number of the device that is causing concern.
A quick check for your problem reveals lots of problems with Hotmail on Macs Read more <a href="http://must-know-mac.blogspot.co.uk/2008/06/how-to-set-up-hotmail-account-on-mac.html">here.</a>
I've just repaired one of these exact models with exact same problem. The battery was shot and every time the user moved or touched the laptop it went blank. It was nothing to do with the laptop or power jack; just simple metal fatigue on the cheap crappy PSU lead which was dis at both ends! New charger costs under £20.
Just found this, which looks like a zip file full of <a href="http://www.mitsdrivers.com/pages_a15im-drivers.html">drivers</a>
It couldn't be as simple as Fn+F7 to toggle webcam on/off? Advent Modena M101 Laptop Specification CPU Intel Celeron T3500 2.1GHz Memory 2GB DDR3 Hard Drive 250GB SATA CD Drive DVDÂ±RW Screen 15.6" Widescreen LED (1366x768) Video Card Integrated Intel Mobile 4 series Webcam Integrated Sound Card High Definition Audio Network Card Integrated 10/100 Ethernet LAN 802.11 b/g/n WLAN Ports 1x Card Reader 3x USB 2.0 1x LAN 1x HDMI 1x VGA 1x Headphone 1x Microphone Battery A14-00-4S1P2200-0 (14.4v 2200mAh) A14-21-4S1P2200-0 (14.8v 2200mAh) Dimensions 33.15 x 382 x 255 (HxWxD in mm) Weight 2.5kg Made By Shuttle A15IM Function Keys Fn+F1 - Places the computer into sleep mode Fn+F2 - Changes the (I-Powerxross) power settings Fn+F3 - Switches display modes: LCD only, External monitor only, LCD+External Monitor Fn+F4 - Turns Wireless LAN on/off Fn+F5 - Switches OSD (on screen display) on/off Fn+F6 - Turns the Touchpad on/off Fn+F7 - Turns the Webcam on/off Fn+F8 - Mute Sound Fn+F9 - Reduces speaker volume Fn+F10 - Increases speaker volume Fn+F11 - Reduces the screen brightness Fn+F12 - Increases the screen brightness Fn+Esc - Toggles Bluetooth & 3G on/off (optional) Useful Links Repairs and Spares All official service and support is handled by Knowhow (basically "The Tech Guys" under a new name), their website is http://www.knowhow.com/. If you laptop is covered under warranty then you need to contact them for repairs. There are also plenty of other companies that do repairs or supply spare parts, here is a selection - TechnoMart - http://www.techno-mart.co.uk DriveMyLaptop (replacement drives) - http://www.drivemylaptop.co.uk Laptop Solutions UK - http://www.laptopsolutionsuk.co.uk PartMaster (spare parts) - http://www.partmaster.co.uk
Have you tried removing the dongle, uninstalling the 3 software & drivers, then re-boot, re-insert dongle & run the installation anew?
Gracias Bobz, I'm sure all the English speaking members of this UK forum will be very glad of your contribution.
Fn+F7 according to UKT... By holding the Fn key in and tapping F7 that should toggle the webcam on and off. When it's on you should see the little LED cam symbol illuminate. http://www.uktsupport.co.uk/advent/laptop/modena100.htm Function Keys Fn+F1 - Places the computer into sleep mode Fn+F2 - Changes the (I-Powerxross) power settings Fn+F3 - Switches display modes: LCD only, External monitor only, LCD+External Monitor Fn+F4 - Turns Wireless LAN on/off Fn+F5 - Switches OSD (on screen display) on/off Fn+F6 - Turns the Touchpad on/off Fn+F7 - Turns the Webcam on/off Fn+F8 - Mute Sound Fn+F9 - Reduces speaker volume Fn+F10 - Increases speaker volume Fn+F11 - Reduces the screen brightness Fn+F12 - Increases the screen brightness Fn+Esc - Toggles Bluetooth & 3G on/off (optional)
what windows 7 laptop do you have exactly?
The "unidentified public network" could be any router within range of your computer that you are not logged into. The sudden disconnection from the 'net is a bit weird and could possibly be a viral attack that may have got through, or your internet security decided the threat was so great that it logged you out. Have you tried looking in the network connections and deleting any existing wi-fi set-up, then do a new search for your router and set it up anew with your router's network key?
Hang on there is something else called an ECO setting. You get to this via the System Control Manager and select "ECO Setting". That brings up a small interface where you can tick or untick devices installed on your laptop to save power.
Fn + F8 appears to be the only way to toggle your Wi-Fi on and off. Does the blue Wi-Fi indicator LED illuminate at all when you do this? If it doesn't then that could indicate a hardware fault. If it lights up but still you get no signal then it could just be the antenna connections to the Wi-Fi card have come loose. There will be an access panel on the underside of the laptop that when removed will enable you to see the card. Also check that it's seated correctly.
Function Keys Fn+F3 - Changes Display Mode: LCD-only, CRT-only, LCD&CRT Fn+F4 - Enable/Disable the WLAN Fn+F6 - Enable/Disable the Touchpad Fn+F7 - Enable/Disable the webcam Fn+F8 - Mute/Unmute Audio
If you search for webcam related articles on here you'll find many similar equiries to yours. Mostly they boil down to one of two things; either the drivers/software is missing or corrupted, or the webcam has been inactivated by a keystroke combination (holding in the Fn key and tapping whatever key has a cam logo on it).
Good advice Jon ;-) Oh, & yes Adam, next time use a damp cloth and not one that's dripping wet.
Try plugging your speakers into the front jacks instead of the rear. You can download Adobe Reader free from a hundred sites & that will allow you to read PDF files.
Device manager may show no errors but have you unwittingly muted the sound with a function key stroke? Look for one of the top row of 'F' keys with a blue 'speaker' sybmol & tap it whilst holding down the 'Fn' key. This will toggle between sound being on or off.
Malcolm, in my realm 2.4 GHz is pretty fast & I think quite capable of handling everyday tasks so I question why you want to upgrade? If you think your computer is slower than it should be then first check the amount of RAM you have on board & clear out any crap / malware / services or startup programs that are not absolutely neccessary.
I usually avoid Belkin since a string of problems with them a few years ago. However this week I visited a customer using 2 <a href="http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?q=belkin+wireless+g+usb+network+adapter&hl=en&prmd=ivns&biw=1284&bih=562&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=4327546978990408784&sa=X&ei=KctHTouBOMGG-wa79cSOBw&ved=0CHoQ8wIwBg"> Belkin Wireless N</a> dongles around the house whos claims they are superb. I must admit when I installed one on a third PC for the same client, the installation was smooth & simple, and worked a treat!
Sorry David, the option to place a call out from PCIQ is a non-starter as you appear to be making contact from France.
This sounds like a corrupted or failed hard drive. Your system is unable to boot normally and goes into repair mode as instructed by the BIOS, which then tries to repair the installation from a recovery partition on the hard drive. As this is failing then there are a number of possibilities, like: 1. The hard drive has died. 2. It's been wiped, written over or corrupted. 3. It's become disconnected. Have you tried booting to safe mode? (usually you get a boot options screen when repeatedly tapping F8 as the PC boots). If that fails best try a boot CD and diagnose the problem or place a call on PCIQ & get someone over to check it out.
Sharon, this is such an old thread that it's not likely to be seen by many people. Please post a new thread, possibly titled "Lost Vaio gate drop down menu" and someone may respond :-)
Absolutely agree. Leave the power lead plugged in at both ends to ensure you have earth. Switch off at the socket outlet for safety but leave the plug in, then touch bare metal on the case to discharge yourself befor touching components. Better still, wear an esp strap!
Well John it was worth a try. I would have to say as the others have already; that something got zapped when you first went into the case :-(
John, are you back to using only your original 500mb RAM now or have you got the new Crucial 1gb in there? I ask because some mobos do not work with all memory manufacturers but insist on certain makes. I personally have bought Crucial DIMMs in the past and they didn't work. I should have read the manual first because when I did, I found that Crucial memory was not listed as being compliant.
Hi Chris, just be absolutely sure before you bin this laptop. When you say "won't boot up, just black screen" do you mean that absolutely nothing happens when you press the "on" button? Or, do you hear any whirring or clicks from inside the case, or see any of the LED's light up or flicker? If so then the mobo may be fine and your problem is with the screen or the cabling to it.
LOL! Back to The Doctor for a change of prescription?
All good stuff Jon. I hope Tom can knock his TARDIS back into shape :-)
This old thread may be useful.. <a href="http://www.pciq.com/computer_support_forum/email_related_issues/view_topic.asp?topicid=5513&searchstring=time drivers"> http://www.pciq.com/computer_support_forum/email_related_issues/view_topic.asp?topicid=5513&searchstring=time drivers</a>
Hi Tom, our resident 'Time Lord' Jon, will no doubt give you the benefit of his expertise shortly. In the meantime try searching this forum for similar enquiries as many people have asked this question before :-)
Jessica, you can prove that is is a faulty screen by plugging your laptop into an external monitor from a PC. If this works and you can see your computer working normally, then you will have identified the laptop screen as faulty :-)
Hi, how's the weather in Dubai? Maybe you need to install some drivers to make your web cam work.
Often these built-in cams are only visible through using software/apps like Skype, Messenger etc. If you want to use it for just looking at yourself & taking the odd snap shot you will need to install a suitable program on your laptop.
It looks very likely that you need to purchase another Win7 disk and re-install, or take it to a facility where they can install an OEM version for slightly less money. Most PCIQ professionals can offer this service if you a request an engineer to visit.
It could be that your wi-fi adapter is only able to operate in WEP. This is true of older adapters, or maybe you could check the settings / properties of the wireless adapter to see if you can enable WPA2.
Possibly you've fallen victim to a fake anti-virus scam and infected your machine with malware. You need to thoroughly scan & clean it up then re-install any missing or corrupt drivers.
Boot-up order is really important here. Often the internet can be lost during a power outage just because most wireless routers boot up more quickly than cable modems, so the router doesn't detect an internet connection when the power is restored. Try turning everything off, then power up the cable modem & leave it alone for 2 minutes. Next power up the wireless router & leave for a minute, then finally boot up your PC. What happens?
Yes, the card reader should show up as 5 or 6 additional drives. It must be either disconnected or faulty if you can't see it in device manager. Even if you had mistakenly uninstalled it, it would show up as "new hardware found" at the next boot up, whereupon Windows would search for and install the driver.
Do the drives show up in device manager? If so, and they have the yellow triangle against them, it's possible that you need to update/re-install the drivers. If not, it's possible that the cable connecting the card reader to the mobo header has come loose.
looks like pretty good clue there in Everest. Multimedia report leads to this driver download page..... http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/downloadsView.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=14&PFid=24&Level=4&Conn=3&DownTypeID=3&GetDown=false
Chris - do a system restore, back to a date before the trouble started.
Chris, it would help if you posted a new thread for your problem instead of tacking on to the back of an old one as it can be easily missed. In the first instance you must talk to "3" and establish with them if your dongle is faulty or not. As you've only just bought it and you are under warranty they must correct any problem you have using the equipment.
For best results choose a high quality / photo print setting from the printer program or driver properties, and proper photo paper. Also perform a nozzle check to see if the print head is blocked; if so do a "clean heads" routine (repeatedly if necessary) until the nozzles print a good check pattern.
Well spotted that man! Mark, I think you will have realised by the amount of moans on the web just how dodgy these dongles are. Your irritation could be symptomatic of a problem with the dongle, or could be getting nobbled by some other software on your laptop. Whichever way, your first port of call should always be 3. At least you have found a work-around :-)
This is a classic case of "RTFM". You need to completely uninstall your Belkin software, uninstall the hardware in Device Manager then shut down the PC. Now remover the Belkin WiFi Adapter and start the PC. Now install the software & drivers BEFORE fitting the hardware. Following software installation shut down again & install the adapter. Reboot and it will work.
LOL! Custard or ice cream with that sir?
I wonder if Windows Update has anything to do with it? http://www.adventsupport.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6737
Try Control Panel, click on Tools> Audio and Video Setup> Next to skip Audio and then your Webcam may be in there. See if you can choose the option to Enable/Disable by right clicking on the cam icon.
its the function key, usually in the lower left part of the keyboard.
Can you export the rocketmail address book to a csv file? If yes, then Gmail will happily import it.
Assuming you haven't changed anything; the master HDD has either failed or a connection is not making properly. Check cables (power and SATA/IDE) are properly seated at both ends. If they are & still the drive isn't seen by BIOS then the drive is probably dead.
as a general rule always try to download the correct drivers for your computer from the manufacturer's site. Avoid the "CLICK HERE TO GET LATEST DRIVERS" sites as they will inevitably lead you astray, fill your PC with spyware & junk and possibly entail you having to pay for something you could have got free on a proper support site.
You may have multiple problems with your netbook prior to trying to load this dongle. I suspect from your comments that you machine is clogged up with too many startup programs and possibly multiple spyware/trojan horse intrusions that are soaking up the processor's capacity to strangling point and so making the loading of your dongle software difficult. Leave the dongle unplugged and turn on the netbook. Leave it alone for about 20 minutes until all drive activity has ceased, then when it's all quiet plug in the dongle and see if it gets picked up by the operating system. Whatever the outcome you may need to get your machine seriously cleaned up so it's functional once again.
Could be many things including processor failure or overheating, mobo chipset failure, power control circuit failure or simply a RAM card badly seated. It needs dismantling to check all these things so I suggest you place a call-out with PCIQ and get it looked at.
It's also possible that the DC power socket on your laptop is damaged & that's why it's not charging properly. If it's the same model try YOUR adapter on your mate's laptop & see if it works there. You have to go through the whole process of elimination before you can properly identify the faulty component.
Sayed, it is very unlikely that PCIQ can help with your problem as we are a UK based organisation and have no engineers on hand in Pakistan should you need assistance.
Has the dongle come with any software that will allow you to configure the settings for it? It sounds as if it's set to disconnect after your mail is downloaded.
Bogus 'helper' software downloads are very abundant on the internet. You need to get your machine professionally cleaned up and a reliable internet security suite installed. If you are not completely computer savvy then call out PCIQ for expert assistance.
Am I alone in believing that that not only are these 3 dongles prone to reliability problems but are also completely unnecessary? Personally, if I want my laptop to access the internet on the move I just plug in my mobile phone. Laptop, phone, USB lead; job done. Why waste money on something else?
More information needed, or possibly you need to request a call out to properly assess the situation.
As there's been no feedback from the originator since December 21st I must assume that he's gone off in search of some new balls instead of cleaning out his cooling fan. I suggest we stick more to the point when replying to these enquiries and avoid wild goose chases.
Daniel: What PC World told you was possibly misleading. If your laptop is "failing due to overheating" this is very likely to be a simple case of processor overheat due to fan failure or clogging of the heatsink. Call out a PCIQ engineer to identify the problem. It will be the cheapest option in the long run as PC World's ultimate aim is to convince you to buy a new laptop. They do not provide a responsible or cost effective repair service!
It may look as though the screen isn't damaged but believe me, it is! These glossy, fragile screens are a nonsense and in my view just something else to boost new laptop sales. They seem to be made of hollywood sugar glass unlike the original soft screens that would take a lot more punishment. If your display is fragmented in any way then there's no way around it, you need a new screen.
An earlier thread on this foeum points to <a href="http://www.uktsupport.co.uk/advent/pc/ego.htm">this site</a>, where you'll find instructions for removing the case. BTW the nearest match I can find from your description is an E Go, not Eco.
Hi Bernard. I've never used a 3 dongle but as far as I know it will automatically load it's drivers upon insertion to a USB port. This should work as well one one machine as on another.
You have a poor contact under the N key due to either dirt or wear. If it's a desktop keyboard just replace it, they are very cheap. If it's a laptop you can sometimes prise off the cap & look to see if there's anything obvious underneath, otherwise you need to replace the keypad.
Also possible is that all the old files you copied from the CD were created using XP software that is not installed on your new Windows 7 machine, indeed it's possible that your documents & pictures are stored in file formats that you can't use at all in Win7. As a general rule, pictures saved in XP as .jpg or .bmp should be viewable in Win7, but MS Office or MS Works documents created on your old machine are unlikely to be viewable on your new one unless you install something like Open Office, which is a free program that can deal with most common file types.
IP originates in Zambia.
Get one <p><a href="http://www.0593c.com/taobao/view.php?iid=5980871246">HERE</a></p>
Look for the "Keystone" settings in your display's control panel.
I'd say you have got it right Jon. By the sound of it the old pictures are being left on the camera memory and just added to each time instead of being taken off. Elizabeth, explorer windows can sort their contents in a variety of ways just by right-clicking on an open bit of the window and hover the cursor over "arrange icons by". You will then see the different sort options available.
If the damage was accidentally caused then I would suggest you look at your household insurance policy.
There's always an <p><a href="http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&biw=1436&bih=699&q=adapter+ps/2+to+usb&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=14941124492437992702&ei=LyCrTPjABsWOjAeeusC7Bw&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=4&ved=0CDkQ8wIwAw#">adapter</a></p> :-)
It should be possible to use a mouse with any laptop fitted with either USB or PS/2 ports.
WoW! You found us from the USA! We don't normally assist in password cracking or similar because of the possibility of criminals using those techniques to re-enable stolen equipment. I hope you understand :-)
Your Operating System has become inoperative so your system then relies on rebuilding it from a recovery partition. From what you say it would seem that the recovery partition itself is corrupted to the extent that it fails to fully restore your laptop. Causes for this could be many, but I would suggest that in light of the fact that more than one partition have become unstable then it's probably due to a failing hard drive.
"Once bitten" Wim, as I was. I got the bailiffs in but they were useless. Said there was nothing there of value to sieze, which I find hard to believe. :-(
The obvious thing to say is to take it back to where you bought it from and state that it doesn't perform to expectations and ask for your money back. Failing that just cut your losses and bin it.
Do Not, repeat DO NOT go near sparesweb or any incarnation of that despicable Brummie company!
Unless you are left-handed and have reversed the buttons on your mouse that should read "right click on toolbar", not "left".
Can't find the model you specify but there are some close matches <p><a href="http://driverscollection.com/?V=ECS %28Elitegroup%29&S=4">HERE</a></p> If I were you I'd just check that model number again.
Hi Fred, you seem to have covered most of the things I would check for but I'll point out a couple of other possibilities that could be the cause. The socket may have a dry joint to the board. The socket may have a carbon build-up where it's been arcing to the plug. The plug may also have a carbon build-up as above. The cable may be broken inside the insulation at the stress point where it enters the back of the plug. The socket may have other internal damage inside that prevents a good contact to the plug. If you can rule out all possibilities other that the socket then it has to be the socket. The only cure is to replace it and that is a relatively simple procedure that a professional would be able to carry out for a reasonable cost. The sockets themselves usually cost no more than a fiver.
Download and reinstall iTunes from this link http://www.apple.com/downloads/, it might help to resolve your issue Hope this information is helpful.
Jamie, these "3" dongles seem to be notorious for not working properly and numerous posts to this forum will testify to that. When you say "it used to work" and then say that all your other USB devices work in that single socket then straight away I suspect another mafunctioning dongle. Demand a replacement from "3".
Try looking in Device Manager for "Show Hidden Devices" and see if there are any imaging devices lurking there. I think your problem is with a Vista update that corrupts the webcam's driver, so if possible you need to uninstall any vestige of the old driver first, then re-install new ones & reboot.
Your Windows installation is either corrupt or your hard drive has failed. See if you can boot from a floppy or CD (Windows installation disc) and if so attempt to repair the existing installation. If that fails then it's likely that your hard drive has died.
Paul, I'm not sure if this is you but if it isn't then somebody has asked the same question. This link seems to have everything: http://forums.majorgeeks.com/showthread.php?t=188084
Maggie - I'd say there's no point in going down the route you suggest i.e. laptop connected to full size monitor, keyboard. mouse etc. You may as well get a desktop PC as the chances are it will be cheaper & more reliable so likely to last you years longer than a laptop. If you want XP look for 2nd hand PC's in your local paper; you could pick up a bargain. I sell used PC's all the time, some of them are very worthy machines and they rarely sell for more than £60!
Look in your start menu for "Set Program Access and Defaults" and select the program you want to start when your camers connects.
Just googled and found this on the 3g forum: "Well not had a problem since switching to Avast, so unless I come back with experience otherwise, it seems AVG is the problem. Thanks all for all the help." It appears to be a conflict between AVG 9.0 and Windows 7.
or maybe fiddled with the volume settings and moved the slider right down, or some software has done this for you whilsy adjusting your settings, or a tick has been put in the box to mute it.
This message tells you that your operating system cannot be found, so can't be loaded at startup. There are numerous reasons for this; one of them as Jon suggests is that your PC is set to boot first from a device other than the hard drive, such as a floppy disk or CD, so if you have one of those in the drive when booting, the PC will not be finding the OS files it needs. Other reasons can be that your hard drive has got messed up so important files cannot be read any more, or the hard drive may be malfunctioning or even dead.
It sounds to me like a signature has been inadvertantly or maliciously created. Look in your settings and check if there's anything in the signature area. If you see the familiar message typed there then delete it and save out.
I don't understand why you are paying twice for an internet connection. One provider costs quite enough!
"Bulldog" uses DDR3 "Vegas 2" uses DDR2 That's what I make of it.
i'm confused as to how you know what machine this customer is using but pc's come equipped either with a built-in card reader or a usb port where an external card reader can be connected.
Oh, hi Jon. Looks like DDR3 on my link!
looks like you need to determine which of 2 motherboards you have, then clicj=k on the associated linf for the info, e.g. "Packard Bell Bulldog Motherboard": System Memory 6x 240-pin DDR3 1.5 V SDRAM slots DDR3 1066 MHz, triple channel Non-ECC RAM Support for up to 12 GB system memory Supports 1 GB and 2 GB modules per socket
I just googled the bit of information you gave and it leads here: http://support.packardbell.com/uk/item/index.php?pn=PT.U170X.006&t=1409&c=28 Your manufacturers web site is always a good place to start!
Personal experience has taught me that the only replacement laptop boards you can get are used items from breakers. They strip old laptops apart and sit in a shed full of bits waiting for a bite from a desperate customer. You will be asked to pay way over the odds for an item that you can't ever be sure that it even works until you've re-built your laptop around it. The usual outlet for these merchants is eBay, but be warned!
Ahem.. With Vista, if you don't plug any speakers in the jack provided then the system reports 'no output device connected'.
sounds like catastrophic hardware failure. someone needs to take a look at so post a call request from the main page.
look at your graphics properties either through control panel or right-click on desktop and select properties. There will be a rotate screen function in there. It's possible that you have function keys to control rotation on your keyboard, which may explain how it occurred in the first place.
This is just a guess: Vista minimum RAM requirement is 512mb Windows 7 minimum RAM requirement is 512md Together making 1024 (1gb) reserved for OS's?
Could be many things from your short description. Check hardware is functional then make sure you have correct drivers for your graphics card / chip. Google for details of drivers for your computer and follow only TRUSTED links (i.e. manufacturer / microsoft sites).
"2) request paid support from a PCIQ professional to get you out of this mess"
if you can open it in safe mode then try to use system restore to take it back to a time when it worked ok.
Make sure your security is up to date and do a full scan. If anything prevents you doing this i.e. pop-ups, lock-ups etc then that will confirm the presence of a virus or like. Install Malwarebytes (Free Download) or Superantispyware and run a complete scan. Tell us what happens then.
Have you tried holding down the function key and tapping the monitor settings key to cycle through the display options? It may be that the laptop is opening by default to an external display which is not present. Have you tried an external display?
Yep, that's just like me to read the small print and ignore the headline! Sorreeeee!
Look for the little coloured symbols on some of the laptop keys (usually blue but not always). At least one of them may have what looks like a little picture of a shining sun; in essence a circle with lines radiating out from it. Hold down the Alt key and at the same time tap the 'sun' key and you should see your screen brighten and/or darken accordingly.
P.S. on this.... There were hundreds of these sold by on-line auction in Nottingham this week (Tuesday). They went for £130 each so if it's one of those there won't be any warranty or returns!!
It could be a bad connection on the ribbon cable under the keyboard where it plugs in to the mainboard but take it back to the shop if its under warranty, DON'T try and take it apart yourself!
Try uninstalling ALL your network connections, software and hardware. Then run a clean install from the 3 dongle. I've noticed that the dongle software often 'knocks out' othe network connections already installed on a PC so it just may be worth using this reversed logic. If you are struggling to find the correct power adapter then think about getting a multi-purpose one that you can select the correct voltage and plug for you device. Just make sure it meets the power input requirements for your device (e.g. 3.5 watts etc)
Ron, you wait until midnight on the 31st October, then use a skeleton key ha ha!
Hi Gordon, I'm afraid we are on dodgy ground with your request as many people would like to know how to crack into a password-protected laptop; in particular the wags who have pinched them from the back of our cars! Your best way forward is to ask the person you bought it from or call in a professional for help. We cannot discuss our methods on this forum.
[Quote] The big question is, why bother? This is a piece of ancient junk [/Quote] Could be cutting edge in Romania?
This forum is primarily for use by UK residents to complement the services offered by UK based PCIQ professionals. As you are located in Romania I suggest there is little chance of garnering any business from you, but may I suggest you turn to Google to find the information you are looking for, as that is often the best way of finding the thing you need.
Should be entertaining at the Christmas party then! Seriously, Ive never seen such a curt request for help, condensed into 2 words as yours is. Looking deeply into my crystal ball I see a ... what is that? I think I see a tall, dark... No! I see it clearly now and I'm sure it's a badly seated or blown stick of RAM!
I don't have a definitive answer but my thoughts are: 1. Replace the keyboard, or 2. See if there's a facility in BIOS to disable the keyboard and use an external one, or 3. Physically remove the keyboard and use an external one.
Hi Ash. Yes this is a mystery if as you say you have checked & re-seated all the loose bits. You say even tilting can make it stop working? I'm afraid I'm at a bit of of a loss now especially as you have tried another hard drive with the same consequences! I have seen laptops that "die" when picked up before but this has always been due to loose components or in one instance a cracked case that got "squeezed" when picked up and shorted the board inside. Simply tilting and getting a freeze up indicates a short or disconnection that is extremely sensitive. Sorry I can't be more help.
Jon, he says it freezes and is unresponsive, not that the screen goes black.
Something is loose inside. I immediately thought "hard drive" but you've covered that, except for the connector itself which could have a slack / bent pin or reecptacle. Check all leads / connectors etc inside the case for good fit and reseat the RAM / wireless / modem modules etc. Please ensure you are suitably grounded before touching the components inside or you run the risk of blowing them up with a static belt.
Pound to a penny says he's changed the default font to "Wingdings" or similar. What's a 9-year old doing with his own laptop? He should be set up on it as a user with no administration rights and this would prevent this type of occurrence.
If you are familiar with Copy / Paste and Format Text operations then this should be enough to see you through most scenarios when putting together a powerpoint slide.
First thing to try is a disk clean-up followed by a de-fragment. If you have AV software installed make sure it is up to date and check for malware etc.
CRASH! tinkle tinkle . . . . .
I have a feeling that you may be in the wrong place and that your enquiries may be intended for 3 and not PCIQ. Please read the preceding comments on this thread and if you still have a question for us then post back with a clearer explanation of what it is you require of us.
Trevor, how have you loaded the drivers for the new card without a display?
Try tapping the F8 key as it boots up and from the options screen start up in Safe Mode. This should start the PC with a minimal set of drivers including a very basic video driver (800x600 max). If your screen displays this low resolution successfully then it's likely that your PC shut down and saved a setting that your monitor can't handle and is trying to restore that setting when you switch on. If that is so then using the safe mode to reset to a lower resolution should restore the monitor next time you boot up normally. If the screen still looks a mess in safe mode then your graphics hardware is suspect.
Let me come in here with an observation. All of what's been suggested is pertinent but there's also another possibility that I find quite commonly and that is fluff/ dust/ detritus in the USB connectors themselves. Many a time I've used a brush / vacuum combination to clean the ports and they spring back to life again!
Hmmm, I spotted that one too .. doo do doo doo Twighlight Zone!
Sorry, complete mystery to me without lots more information about printer, drivers, O/S, PC etc. Strange thing is that most printing problems occur when trying to print web pages! Normally the print drivers can deal with everyday tasks from the local machine. Only thing I can offer is uninstall / re-install your printer and try again?
Either corrupt data or failed hard drive. You'll need a professional to look at it.
typo - sorry should read: rise to these annoyances
It points to a software problem so we can rule out any possible faults with your Optical Drive. These Burning Programs don't like to mix together on the same PC, and even if you've had one program before and uninstalled it prior to loading a new one it can leave behind traces that give rise to there annoyances. You may need to uninstall and then get a professional to check for left-over vestiges of older burning applications and then re-install your new one into a clean environment. (Unless you feel lucky and want to have a go yourself!) Nero offer a clean-up tool but even with this I've found left-over traces after using it.
Jean, do you get the same error if you choose to output to disk image instead of DVD/CD burn?
PCIQ Alert! Sorry Luis, personal advertising is not allowed. If a customer wishes to arrange for a professional service they have the means to call for a local provider.
abraham - where are you?
Thank you for leaving your feedback. It is valued and has been noted as we all learn from these customer interactions as we go along.
If there's any data you want to save on this drive then for Pete's sake recover it first before you take any other steps to sort out it's problems. If you have a desktop PC then the best way is to slave the drive to this and copy off the files you want to keep. Then play about with or replace the drive.
I'm working on an Advent today. Got it apart no problem so the "stuck in the middle" bit must be the keyboard screw? I presume you took out the optical drive screw just next to the RAM card? My problem is I think I need to replace the poxy little IDE ribbon film that connects the hard drive to the mobo. What a lousy design! and I can't find one anywhere (Jon!).
First idea is for you to contact T-mobile and ask them. Have you done that?
Okay, I'll keep an eye out for them and if I see any I'll let you know.
If your local Apple store can't help you then I very much doubt that we can. However if you can be more specific about the symptoms some one may attempt to give you the best advice.
If you haven't got a manual for your printer you can nearly always read one on the manufacturers web site. Try googling for it.
Are you are sure there's nothing lodged underneath it that stops it going all the way down? If it seems to work normally but you don't get anything on screen then it's likely that you'll need to replace the entire keyboard as individual keys can't be replaced. Either that or plug in an external keyboard and use that instead?
Hi Jenny, it would be a good idea to start a new thread for your problem!
There's lots of choice for you out there Lynne, look at this link: http://tinyurl.com/nr6rsx It's all up to what you like the look of and how much you want to pay. I think you should find what you need for about a tenner, and look for ones that are designed specifically for notebooks and have a high resolution. Personally I like the clip-on type as it sits atop of your screen without falling off every time you move!
Please supply details of laptop make / model also what operating system you are / were using. Did you add any hardware / software / downloads etc befor this started happening?
If your wireless router is set to WPA / WPA2 encryption your laptops must be able to recieve same. It's possible that your Acer is only able to recieve the older WEP encryption, in which case you won't be able to connect to your router. You can alter the router settings to WEP and then both laptops will connect.
Could be a backlight problem. Basically they are thin flourescent tubes so can devlop a flicker just like the ones in your office. In rare cases these can be replaced but normally they are buried inside the layers that make up your screen making it impossible to attempt repair. Have you tried your laptop with a different monitor to prove whether its monitor or machine where the fault lies?
If all that fails then check if your router's encryption is compatible with the wireless card in your kid's desktop. If your router is outputting WPA-2 but your wireless card can pick up only WEP then they are not compatible and won't see each other.
Sorry I'm a bit late in on this (as usual) but have you considered the possibility that the shorting component is actually a fuse? Many fuses are as you describe and look remarkably like capacitors when laying side-on to the board. Also they tend to be adjacent to the incoming power supply, but in my experience they are normally identified on the board markings as F*** or FS***
helo = HELP (Looks like another Staggtypo!)
I've had a personal experience of this message being related to an incorrect boot.ini file. The HAL.DLL was actually pefectly OK and following this advice worked. http://www.kellys-korner-xp.com/xp_haldll_missing.htm
I found this on "Fixya" (OK I hate the site, but will this work? "you turn the webcam on by pressing [Fn] and [F6] at same time, its not a software problem, it just doesn't tell you in the instructions."
What email software are you using? If it's Outlook or Outlook Express all your contacts will still be in your Windows address book on your PC. If you are using a web-mail application like Hotmail, Yahoo or Gmail then you can log into that account from any computer and still access your mail and contacts. Using web mail is the safest way to preserve your mail as it will still be there regardless of what PC or ISP you use.
It's not healthy to mix CD Burning software so uninstall any traces of what you've done so far and get this: http://cdburnerxp.se/download.php
Re skill levels - Replacing a missing cap is extremely simple and there are plenty of instuctional guides together with photo's to illustrate the techniques on the internet (Google). The only difficulty is in replacing an entire key assembly, and this customer hasn't specified exacly what the problem is. I don't know if it's just me Alan, or if there actually is a hint of sneering cynicism in every comment you make about other contributors on this site, but either way, pretty soon it'll just be down to you and Jon if you keep it up.
You can buy individual key caps from specialist laptop breakers. Googling for the description should throw up some leads for you, and can cost as little as 30p per cap.
Try holding down the fn key and slowly tap the corresponding Function key (it will have a picture of a monitor on it). This will cycle through the various display options available on your laptop and if no damage has been done, hopefully your screen will light up again. Most likely the laptop got stuck in TV display mode when the power outage occured.
In that case I'd say your graphics chip is knackered. You'll need a specialist repair firm to work on the board and it will cost upwards of £150 so you may want to think about whether it's time to buy a new PC. Desktops suffer less from this type of failure than laptops and are cheaper to repair when they go wrong.
A solution was found for this here http://tinyurl.com/mn7lag See if it works for you.
Let's wait and see what he comes back with.
Have you tried system restore?
and as I have now said twice, if you DO SEE a readable display in safe mode then there is a chance that I am correct in my assummption (it's not a diagnosis) and Alan's diagnosis is wrong.
The symptoms you describe fit exactly to the problem of a graphics display which is set too high for the monitor to handle. To check if this is your problem you need to boot into safe mode, where the graphics settings are set to a very low level. If this is successful then you can nothch your settings up whilst still in safe mode, then re-boot to see if your display is once again working correctly; which is more or less exactly what I said the first time, so have you tried it yet? On most set-ups you get into safe mode by tapping the F8 key repeatedly as soon as you switch on; other models vary such as Esc, F2 etc.
Could be messed up graphics card or incorrect settings. Check if video display looks OK in safe mode; if so then set display properties to low (800x600) and see if that boots in properly. If so then notch up to the settings you want and see where it mashes up. If you can't do any of this even in safe mode then your graphics card / chip is a goner.
The bluetooth dongle should have been supplied with an installation disc or the drivers should have been installed prior to sale. Have you checked the installed files on the PC or asked your supplier?
Hi Chris, I probably don't have a battery to try but more pertinent to your question is... where are you?
Simple, but nobody has suggested it so far... have the monitor settings been fiddled with? Either the dials under the screen (on older CRT models) or the on-screen-display on newer CRT's / LCD's / TFT's usually have the ability to increase or decrease the colour intensity. If this has been knobbled then your picture will appear black & white, in which case just turn the colour back on using the monitor controls. It may be nothing to do with your computer itself.
You'll find how to troubleshoot this problem here... http://support.microsoft.com/kb/942495
Here's an example of a site claiming to have all the documents, but I've no idea what they charge. http://tinyurl.com/kwfzdr
My thoughts entirely Jon. My sister-in-law's reasoning is 2Well, I just neede to get it done and I didn't want to bother you again". This much is true- I would have gladly driven the 130 miles there and back again for a job that was going to bag me 200 pounds profit.
http://tinyurl.com/mz3q6a http://tinyurl.com/n84b52 Less than thirty quid and an hour's easy work.
I just rang my sister-in-law in Hertford who was having the problem with the Netgear. She "called in a man" today apparently who said that the Netgear "should work but doesn't" so he sold her a TP-Link for 69.00 and 128MB of RAM for 40.00, spent almost an hour on site for a total bill of 220.00 pounds. It makes me sick!
Just remembered, the other one I had similar set-up problems with was a Sweex.
IP config looked good as the router had allocated an IP (192.168.0.3 if I remember) so a network existed, but just no internet. Couldn't configure the router as explained. Disconnecting the router and hard-wiring straight from the cable modem and BAM! internet is there again no problem. I was very specific about where to plug in the cables so I'm in no doubt they were correct, but every time the router was re-inserted into the chain the internet was unobtainable to the main PC, and also invisible!
Yes that's right Alan - I did get the client to verify the ip from the manual before they typed it in.
Can you boot to safe mode and run system restore from there? Switch on computer and repeatedly tap F8 key as it starts up, then choose safe mode from list.
No Alan, they were both set to auto and connected by cable. Typed in http://192.168.1.1 and pc sees nothing on the other end. Interestingly, a laptop picked up a signal from the router but of course was unable to connect to the internet. Jon> one was a netgear similar to the ones Virgin are doling out and the other I can't remember. Don't forget both of these incidents I tried to deal with at the end of a phone line so I couldn't see what was going on for myself.
Interesting.... I would endorse what this customer is asking as I have a query on this subject myself that may well be linked. I know of 2 instances lately where a new wireless router fails to be seen by a pc when connected up with an ethernet cable. Obviously this prevents the installation of the new router from completing, with the result that their wireless network fails to materialise and their new laptop is useless. In both cases I have been contacted by telephone and have failed to resolve the problem from a distance simply by talking it through, but I would like to know if there is something very basic that I'm missing.
I think it could simply be a case of limited video capability i.e. your system needs upgrading or replacing because it it can't cope with what is being asked of it.
This is what microsoft says at http://tinyurl.com/22zhul "This issue might occur if a system thread generates an exception that the error handler does not catch. This exception can be caused by any of the following: If this issue occurs after the first restart during Windows Setup or after Setup is complete, the computer might not have sufficient hard disk space to run Windows XP. The computer BIOS might be incompatible with Windows XP, or it might have to be updated. The video adapter drivers might be incompatible with Windows XP. A device driver or a system service might be damaged. If the issue is associated with the Win32k.sys file, it might be caused by a third-party remote control program." These stop messages are very often associated with hardware failures or driver corruption. ave you added any new devices lately? If so then remove them and try starting in safe mode, run system restore to a date before any changes were made. If that doesn't work it's likely that you have faulty hardware on board.
This is a handy tool for accessing any mail account via the web. All you need to know is your account username and password. http://www.mail2web.com/
Linda, lots of these download sites try to divert you into downloading their sponsored software. Sometimes you have to look at the small print between the lines to get what you actually went there for.
If it's an on-board video adapter you have and the cables are secure then suspect faulty graphics chip (new motherboard!). If it's a Plug-in Graphics card either PCI or AGP then first try re-seating the card & connectors, then if that fails it's time to replace the card.
I just looked at this again and maybe have an alternative conclusion. The monitor is not seeing the signal from your PC! This could be due to poor cable connections, graphics set-up or failed graphics hardware.
This message relates to a wireless network not being "seen" by your PC. Are you using wireless to access your network? Have you changed any settings recently? Have you tried running System Restore back to a point when it used to work? Have you inadvertantly turned off wireless networking? Have you recently installed any new software? Have you tried connecting to your modem/router with a cable? Please consider the actions above and get back.
I strongly advise you to seek professional help as there's no advice we can give you when dealing with a "dead" laptop. Go back to the PCIQ home page and request an engineer by following the on screen instructions.
My thoughts on this problem (sorry I've only just caught up with the thread) 1. Messenger is still a portal to the internet so it's virtually the same as using a browser and subject to similar fault conditions. Linda, have you tried setting messenger to NOT start up when windows starts? (Look in settings/connection) 2. Have you tried uninstalling Messenger from Add/Remove programs in Control Panel? 3. If either of these things result in your PC staying on after a reboot without falling to a white screen then you have almost solved the problem at zero expense. It may still be possible that malware is to blame and that will still need to be removed, but if it's simply a corrupt Messenger installation and everything seems normal after disabling / uninstalling it, then it will be a simple matter to download and re-install later to see if it's any better.
Strange; I can't see Pamela J's original question.
Skype seems a bit redundant for me now as Google Mail includes video/voice/IM and everything all in the same window.
Ahem... My Epson Stylus Color 680 is still going strong after 8 years or more of continuous hammer, and I've been able to buy cartridges for it from as little as 30p each. All Hail Epson!
Could be just a faulty seating on the ribbon cable but if you are not prepared to start taking the laptop to bits and risking further damage then you'd better call in a paid professional.
SORRY! I'm using secure mode again - try this! http://www.pciq.com/computer_support_forum/email_related_issues/view_topic.asp?topicid=4678
Bob, check out this previous thread and see if it relates to your problem... https://secure.pciq.com/sp_profile/forum/general/view_topic.asp?topicid=4678
Satwinder K. - A simple lesson for you - "If it ain't broke, don't try and fix it". In other words; why fiddle in the control panel and delete your audio capability in the first place? I'm just interested to see what motivates people; nothing personal :)
It's not "Incredimail" by any chance is it?
Do you want to share the name and download location of this software with us? I fancy butterflies on my screen now!
Is this only when you open a web page or mail from the Messenger application? What happens if you just open Internet Explorer straight from the start menu?
I think it's a scam and we have been duped into being used as a conduit to spread the bug around by the creator who then relies on people Googling for an answer and then hitting on an infected site; exactly like what we have all just done.
Or you can just buy an enclosure for the laptop hard drive and turn your old hard drive into a USB mobile drive for just a few pounds, complete with all your old files.
Jon - just for the sake of clarity, please define "Battery Life" for us. It seems you are quoting how long a battery will run a laptop from a full charge and I am quoting how long it will "last" as in when it becomes unusable and unable to hold a charge.
Look for your battery model/part number and simply Google for it. You will find dozens of sellers at varying prices from around £25. It all depends what kind of shopper you are; I've found that the very cheapest replacement batteries from the Far East are extremely lightweight in construction and don't last as long as factory originals from the outset, so I don't expect a great performance from them. Basically if you subscribe to the school of thought "You get what you pay for" then it's up to you what you pay and what to expect. Most manufacturer laptop batteries at the moment do well to last 12 months.
On seeing your answer to the LED colours my initial diagnosis would have been PSU failure but beyond that the possibilities are more numerous. Better to have a professional take a close look now you have eliminated the obvious.
Definitely a fix at the "techie" end of the spectrum, but hey, if it works for you....
If the "password" is left just blank and yours is the only account on the PC (except Administrator) then it will boot straight in to your (the default) account without you having to log on. You can choose various options for logging on from the control panel/users set-up.
Try rebooting and keep tapping the F8 key as it first boots up. You should see a screen offering options to boot to so scroll up and choose "safe mode". Once booted you can choose to log on as "administrator" (if your IT bods will let you) and reset the password for your account. Once done then re-boot and everything should look normal again.
Almost certainly the battery has gone completely causing a short on the power rail. The symptoms you describe are typical of a battery in dire need of replacement. Best thing is not to even try and run the laptop with it fitted as you can do further damage to the laptop itself. You are fine to carry on using the laptop on mains power without the battery fitted.
So Sophie, the short answer is "no" you can't just tweak up processor speed, and Alan's spot on with the warning about laptop graphics capabilities. In the main they don't come with super-dooper graphics cards like desktop PC's and so are much more reliant on pure processor power. You may therefore find that whereas your game will run on a 2Ghz desktop PC with a decent graphics card, it may not run on a 2Ghz laptop with only a basic onboard grahics chip.
Try Fn+F11 or FN+NumLk.
Yes, thanks Alan; I forgot I was on the secure link :)
The file name should end in ".doc" not ",doc" as you have written. This may be just a typo on your part but if it's not then rename the file and try to open it again in Word. If that doen't work then it still leaves acouple of possibilities, the file is corrupt or your Word installation is corrupt.
Can you learn anything from reading this recent topic? https://secure.pciq.com/sp_profile/forum/hardware_related_issues/view_topic.asp?topicid=4521 It's possible that you have a similar problem.
It's a very wide field you've marked out to play your game in Lauren. IT Support covers anything from individual personal support for single users right up to corporate WAN's so where exactly do you want to fit in? The most recent developments we are aware of here in our little coccoon is the ability for users to come to a free forum such as this excellent site provided by PCIQ and fix their annoying problems (hopefully!). Did your A levels cover the development of remote support like Teamviewer? That's about as cutting-edge as it gets here.
Good question. I don't have a magic answer for you I'm afraid as I'm not one of those who has an "insider" to contact within the industry. Have you tried Googling with the actual part number printed on the board? I ask because sometimes doing this throws up some surprising differences in the search results to just entering the make & model of your computer.
Come on Jason; you've given us nothing to go on in that one-liner! More descriptive prose please!
For my tuppence-worth, I've had my share of trouble tracking down replacement parts for short-lived laptops and can sympathise with your predicament Georgina. Professionals are not infallible, but I admit this is a weak defence if you have been robbed by someone who gave you duff information and charged for it. With a situation like yours I can see that there must be a bit of hit-and-miss in the diagnosis and in this case they got it wrong.
It may also be called "Internet Connection Wizard".
Have you used the "Network Connection Wizard" in the control panel?
Stuart, with respect, the error message "operating system cannot be found" IS indicative of a failed hard drive. It it entirely possible for the BIOS to see and recognise a hard drive during boot up, but if the drive ain't spinning then then no OS can be found can it? I have witnessed this very scenario myself many more times than a corrupted boot sector. The only sensible recourse is to save any customers data possible (if the drive will spin up and allow it) and then run some diagnostics. I still maintain that drive failure is to be strongly suspected and therefore appropriate measures should be taken before subjecting the drive to further stresses.
Mark, can you please clarify: 1. Is amber the normal colour for the power led? 2. Is red the normal colour for HDD activity? The problem could well be a power failure of just one of the several voltage rails that the supply pumps out. If the power supply checks out ok then it could be a hard drive failure. The led's in some machines emit a different colour under fault conditions than under normal conditions.
What I see from the symptoms is a dead or dying hard drive, in which case no amount of MBR repairing is going to work. I think that is also where Jon is coming from.
There's just a chance that running the internet connection wizard from the control panel will fix this problem. Try the easy stuff first Katy!
John, please be aware that when you right-click an image on a website it is likely to be a low-resolution format that has been optimised for the web, therefore when you set it as your desktop wallpaper and stretch it to fit it will look awful (very pixellated). You need to download high-quality images to use as desktop backgrounds, and you can easily find them on Google by searching for "large images" under the "images" tab (at the top of the Google home page). Find what you like, download the file to your PC and then set it as "desktop wallpaper/background".
Some touchpads display an icon in the system tray (normally bottom-right of screen in most Windows O/S's) and a double-click on this will open the user interface where preferred options can be configured. If not you can sometimes access the config interface by opening Control Panel.
A very good instructional guide, but did you notice that despite all the prior warnings about ESD protection, the person in the pictures is not wearing a wrist-strap?
I'll produce the manual next time I have to do it, Jon!
Check that the webcam is enabled in device manager. I've seen a customer unable to use webcam and this was the problem.
Forget soldering a new socket. I've sorted the exact same problem with a delicate touch on my micro-drill and a piece of piano wire!
I just found this by Googling your problem... "that message refers to panda antivirus software quick reinstall should fix it!" Let me know if it works please.
"new computer" is a simplistic answer and may be not welcome to the less well-heeled sections of society. Basically you just need to stop all the start-up options that by default install themselves on your PC and rob it of its resources without your knowledge. Stop Windows Messenger from starting at boot-up, Stop Skype, Stop Google Toolbar, Stop Yahoo Toolbar, In fact, stop everything from automatically starting at boot-up, and then just start the programs from the start menu as and when you want to use them. This will improve your boot-up performance and put you back in control of your PC.
This is always a good way to access e-mails if your Outlook etc. local machine mail software is playing up.... http://www.mail2web.com/ Try it.
Yes I agree with Alan; back-up / external hard drive was the first thing I thought of when I read the question.
Hi Ann, from what you describe I'm left wondering if you have windows XP or Win98? This would make a difference in what advice to give you. XP may require a system restore back to an earlier time before the problems started, bur '98 may require a re-installation from the CD to restore all the missing files and correct registry entries. In both cases I would also recommend a full CheckDisk, Defrag & Virus/Malware check.
The way I interpret what I just read is that the rest of the unit seems to run at normal temperatures, with only the tip of the power plug becoming overheated. Am I right? Safety is of course paramount and you should not use the machine until the problem is fixed. What I suggest is that there is a high-resistance connection between the plug and the socket it goes into which is causing the heat. This can happen if the connection is a bit loose, then sparks occur, leading to carbon deposits, leading to high-resistance, leading to heat output. See? It's a vicious circle once it starts and the only way to cure it is to replace the power socket in the laptop.
If they are not in the bin then something like "Free Undelete" can sometimes recover them. Once you have them all back then a proper uninstall from the control panel or start menu program group is likely to be successful.
Definitely "trial and error"! I've had laptops in the past with "TV Out" connectors but they never worked with any TV I tried them on!
Ha ha -Hilarious! "Just remove all your clothing while you do this" - Nice one Jon! More practical is to earth youself and discharge any residual static charge in your clothing and body by simply holding on to a metallic part of your PC casing (assuming the mains lead is connected and plugged into a wall socket) before touching the components inside.
Ahh, just got your second post - no worries. Glad its sorted.
Check this out and see if it helps... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power-on_self-test
These bleeps are a message from your system's BIOS to tell you that all is not well. Does it boot up following the bleeps or just stall?
I see in my crystal ball that Shaun is trying to create a recovery disk for his Acer on a removable USB external drive. Best to follow Jon's suggestions, mate.
No it won't delete any of your pictures etc. All it will do is make your display work properly as it was designed to do by the manufacturer.
What Operating System are you using? Vista? XP? Windows 95? Are you expecting to see something automatically launch when you plug in your camera and this is no longer happening?
We've had a previous discussion about bouncing on the dock.... http://www.pciq.com/computer_support_forum/email_related_issues/view_topic.asp?topicid=3026 Does this help?
Just to expand on the subject of Partition Magic for the benefit of the customer; I have found success every time when using this software for re-sizing existing partitions without any loss or corruption of data. However, I've not had the same successful results when "combining" 2 partitions into 1. For that I would recommend only using it on virgin drives with no stored data.
Dare I mention . . . . . . . . Partition magic?
Unfortunately this is very common, particularly when the sites visited on the internet are not striclty "Kosher". Dodgy sites abound with malware just waiting to pounce and invade your PC with pop-ups and hidden programs to keep them coming at an ever-increasing pace no matter how hard you try and stop them. These sites are not all "porn-related" but often include download / file-sharing sites and all carry the same risk. Just like in every town or city - there are places where it's not safe to go on the internet. You now need to install a good anti-virus program and malware scanner, free examples of these are given on the PCIQ link from the home page. Download from the safe links there, install and run. Once installed do a complete system check to clear out any rubbish.
Let me guess... you are using some kind of software that loads from a CD and is supposed to enable you to transfer files from one computer to another? We need to know what CD that is to help you. Personally I can't see why you don't just chuck your old files on to some type of storage media and retrieve them on the new PC - simple.
Unless you have something so evil (like antivirus 360) that it takes over your screen every few seconds and prevents you doing anything else because of all the clutter. If that is the case then a wipe-out and re-installation is the best bet. To simply wipe your drive just format it from the drive properties dialogue. Then you should really run some deep cleaning tools on it like Killdisk to obliterate any trace of embedded viruses. Then pop in an O/S CD/DVD and install a new system. Do you need any more pointers than that? If you think that any of those steps are a bit beyond you then you should call in a PCIQ professional.
Is it a daft idea to suggest putting the old hard drive back and running the restore image?
Yes, thank you Jon for a very complete, if exhausting, appraisal of some of the options available! Don't forget that unless you have a cutting-edge machine of gargantuan proportions in respect of processor speed and RAM size, a cocktail of so many components is likely to slow your machine to a standstill. It's really all about the places you frequent on the internet. I've learned the hard way to steer clear of certain dodgy districts on the 'net, the same as we learn not to go into certain areas of our towns and cities. Stick to respectable areas and you may not need to travel in an armour-plated car. I now get by quite happily on this old Toshiba laptop with Avast! AV and SpywareBlaster. My other PC's are loaded with AVG8 and SpywareBlaster. Since AVG8 incorporated spyware scanning I have dropped off using Spybot S&D, which was very time consuming and resource-hungry on my older machines.
Nightmare. Did you save the "profile" when you made the good connection? If you didn't you will have to enter all the username / password / key information each time you connect. Saving the setup configuration as a "profile" means that next time you swith on, the internet connection will be restored automatically. Basically all you need is the WPA Key Code from the label under your Sky Wi-Fi Router.
That's right - get a USB wireless dongle for under a tenner and forget about fixing whatever's broken inside. Cheap and effective!
Get a copy of Everest Home Edition from http://www.majorgeeks.com/download.php?det=4181 look at your system info and then check the motherboard manufacturers site for drivers The report from Everest will look something like this..... CPU Properties: CPU AMD Duron, 850 MHz (8.5 x 100) CPU Alias Spitfire, Athlon Lite CPU Stepping 2 Instruction Set x86, MMX, 3DNow! L1 Code Cache 64 KB L1 Data Cache 64 KB L2 Cache 64 KB (On-Die, Full-Speed) Motherboard Properties: Motherboard ID 07/11/2001-SiS-730-6A6ISJ19C-00 Motherboard Name Jetway 830CF/CH Front Side Bus Properties: Bus Type DEC Alpha EV6 Bus Width 64-bit Real Clock 100 MHz (DDR) Effective Clock 200 MHz Bandwidth 1600 MB/s Motherboard Physical Info: CPU Sockets/Slots 1 Expansion Slots 3 PCI, 1 AGP, 1 CNR RAM Slots 2 DIMM Integrated Devices Audio, Video Form Factor Micro ATX Motherboard Size 210 mm x 240 mm Motherboard Chipset SiS730S
It wouldn't stop it working in resolutions other that 680x400 though. It sounds like its just running on basic VGA mode because the on board graphics accelerator isn't installed properly. If it was then a whole range of resolutions would be possible, albeit that none of them may suit a wide screen format.
Most likely a driver problem. The system specifications for your machine suggest that it was provided with Windows XP Home Edition preinstalled, so the most recent relevant device drivers would be: Motherboard chipset â€“ Windows XP Unified driver version 5.10 Integrated graphics (if you need it) â€“ Forceware release 80 If you're not using Windows XP then visit www.nvidia.com and download the appropriate driver versions for your â€˜flavourâ€™ of Windows. Windows XP Service Pack 1 or 2 would need to be installed before the device drivers. If the Windows XP CD you're using doesn't already have either Service Pack 1 or Service Pack 2 integrated, then you can download the full 270M SP2 installation package in readiness from Microsoft I hope that helps,
https://www.expansys.com.hk/ft.aspx?k=54103 "Compaq iPAQ h3870 Pocket PC. Support Forum. Welcome to our forums. ... The iPAQ 3870 comes with an SD slot, not and SDIO slot - which is required for any ..."
Please try and re-seat the connecting lead first and see if that fixes your problem.
You have, quite simply, been nobbled. Get some protection on your PC as suggested and run the cleaning program/s.
OK Wendy, just concentrate on the red dot on the wall in front of you and let your mind go blank.... That's it. Now I'll invade your senses with the Vulcan mind-meld. It may feel uncomfortable for a short while but I can assure you that there will be no long-term after effects. Only this way can I comprehend exactly what your problem is. Either this or please be more specific.
Most laptops have the ability to rotate the display using the settings in Control Panel. Mostly this is when the laptop is used for presentation work etc. and fed through an LCD projector that's mounted upside-down from a classroom ceiling. It's a simple matter of navigating to the monitor settings in Contol Panel and rotating the display 180 degrees.
Get a copy of Everest Home Edition from http://www.majorgeeks.com/download.php?det=4181 Copy your system info and paste it here; like this..... CPU Properties: CPU AMD Duron, 850 MHz (8.5 x 100) CPU Alias Spitfire, Athlon Lite CPU Stepping 2 Instruction Set x86, MMX, 3DNow! L1 Code Cache 64 KB L1 Data Cache 64 KB L2 Cache 64 KB (On-Die, Full-Speed) Motherboard Properties: Motherboard ID 07/11/2001-SiS-730-6A6ISJ19C-00 Motherboard Name Jetway 830CF/CH Front Side Bus Properties: Bus Type DEC Alpha EV6 Bus Width 64-bit Real Clock 100 MHz (DDR) Effective Clock 200 MHz Bandwidth 1600 MB/s Motherboard Physical Info: CPU Sockets/Slots 1 Expansion Slots 3 PCI, 1 AGP, 1 CNR RAM Slots 2 DIMM Integrated Devices Audio, Video Form Factor Micro ATX Motherboard Size 210 mm x 240 mm Motherboard Chipset SiS730S
I have repaired slack USB sockets with nothing more than a pair of snipe-nose pliers. If it's only that the metal casing has been stressed apart then tweak it together again until it grips the plug once more (at your own risk of course).
Your manual: http://org.downloadcenter.samsung.com/downloadfile/ContentsFile.aspx?CDSite=uk&CttFileID=2149324&CDCttType=UM&ModelType=N&ModelName=NP-R510&VPath=UM/200901/20090109172130203/NP-R510_SA11_E152_Vista_manual_v1.6_eng.exe suggests that to change TV settings, select TV+Movies > TV Settings.
Can you adjust the "aspect" properties of your tv to make the picture fit?
Sometimes the camera just has to be enabled in device manager.
I've checked the site - no problems with Facebook. You see all other sites OK - No problems with your PC. You can't see all the content you wish to view - maybe it's down to your personal settings for the site? Go into Facebook, then settings and check that the bits you want to see are enabled.
Classic remedy for this type of problem is... System Restore! Just forget about the screensaver, it's not worth it whatever it is if it's causing problems.
What is your manufacturer / retailer's response? 2 months old means you are under warranty.
Faulty hardware! It could indeed be the graphics card but may be a number of different causes - RAM, Processor, Bus Controller etc. etc. Either bin it or call in a professional if you think it may be worth saving.
You need to check your administrator settings. "No authorisation" messages usually occur when your user settings prevent you from accessing certain parts of the program or making certain changes. It's too long ago now since I used Lotus Notes for me to remember what settings are within that program but there may be something there if you look into the properties. Sorry I can't be more specific at this point.
The reset button simply restores the router back to its original "out of the box" state, so if you have your user manual just follow it as if you have just brought bit home from the shops and are using it for the fist time.
Hi John, I think you probably need to call out an ebgineer to properly diagnose the problems and put things right. There are far too many possibilities to go into on this forum to assist you remotely.
Looking at the POST screen during bootup will show any hard drives fitted. If you are sure that the drive is cabled and powered correctly then the drive is dead.
But, is your landlady still getting het internet connection?
Until we see a response from the customer we'll never know. Whatever, I suspect it all leads to updating windows and getting the latest service packs installed.
Looking at the options available leads me to ask the question; "are you using Norton/Symantec anti-virus protection? Rationale: http://service1.symantec.com/SUPPORT/powerquest.nsf/35f1485389b899f088256e97004a3bb4/626010eae181acc988256e75007cd1f9?OpenDocument&prod=V2i%20Protector&ver=Server%20Edition%202.0&pcode=v2ipro&src=ent&miniver=v2ipro_server_2&tpre=&prev=&dtype=corp
Go to the link: http://support.microsoft.com/search/default.aspx?mode=r&query=0x000000ED&spid=global&catalog=LCID%3D2057&2057comm=1&res=20 Does any of that relate to your problem?
As a rule, the fibre is terminated at the C-MUX switch in your street cabinet and from there they run a copper connection to your home which is connected to your PC via an RJ-45 Cat5, 5E or Cat6 connection. Some cable operators (Virgin for one) are now able to bring the fibre right into your home and offer speeds of 50mb/s or more, but it is still rare.
Here here. You'll have noticed that I've not contributed to this discussion because I drew the same conclusion as you (Jon) from the outset.
OK, I always forget that some people have sugar in their tea. Yes, this method is more likely to be successful if its only water, but I did say 90 percent of the time - not 100 :)>
M.A. - When drying a laptop out always take out any "bits" you can to open the case up to the air as much as possible. Remove the battery, hard drive, RAM cards, keypad (if possible) and leavi it in the airing cupboard overnight. Also if you're confident enough to open the case then you can delicately mop up any wet patches you find to speed the drying process. Just drying out properly will resore the laptop to working order 90 percent of times.
Thanks for that Jon, I never intended to imply that Spyware Doctor itself was bogus; just that there were many such downloads available albeit under a variety of different names, none of them actually able to do any cleaning until they were paid for.
Shannon, You have to understand that there are dozens of bogus downloads available that claim to fix your PC in one way or another, but all they do is tell you what your PC is infected with, scare you to death and hope that you then hand over some cash to get the rest of the program. This is why I (and now Jon) have given you the specific web sites to download from so you wouldn't fall into that trap. Just stick to the ones we recommend and you'll increase your chances of fixing your problem.
Hi Shannon - just follow the programs instructions for removing or cleaning the threats & infections. Options can range from "cleaning" the infected files (which just removes the piece of damaging code from an existing file - very safe) to "Removing the Infected File" (which deletes the entire file containing the infection - more risky). Back up what you can before making any unsafe moves, then choose the option (if you see it) to place infected files into the "Virus Vault". At least then if something fails to work properly afterwards you have a chance to retieve the file and have another crack at the virus (a bit like the re-cycle bin). There should be an easily available guide to assist you with using each of the programs you have installed; have you read the instructions?
You need to install some security on your machine, which is probably infected with viruses & spyware. I would advise you to find free downloads on the 'net and install either Avast or AVG Free Anti-Virus and perform a thorough check & removal on your hard drive/s, then download and install a separate anti-spyware as a second defence; SpywareBlaster works well with AVG, but there are others such as SuperAntiSpyware etc. These programs will stop infections in the future before they get on your PC. http://free.avg.com/download-avg-anti-virus-free-edition http://www.javacoolsoftware.com/spywareblaster.html
Sorry Sarah, I draw a blank at this stage; I would need to visit and see exactly what's happening to sort it out. I'm sorry if you've had a bad experience already with a PCIQ call-out but that really is my only recommendation at this point :(
Sorry, it may be late but I don't quite understand your problem. Could you be more specific?
Please switch to the Pro forum with replies to this!
Sarah, you mentioned in your last post about having ANOTHER router on your ADSL line that works fine? Is that ringing alarm bells with anyone guys? Can you run several ADSL routers off a single line? Sarah can you enlighten me on this comment please?
More thoughts - if we are talking about a notebook then the "lead" is probably in two separate parts; one each side of the Power Supply. Which part is "frying"; the thick mains lead or the thinner DC lead?
When the lead "fries", do you mean it blows the fuse at the AC plug end? If so there is a short circuit somewhere in the equipment and you need to isolate where it is. Have you tried another lead (e.g.kettle)? If the fault is narrowed down to the lead then it's a very cheap fix. Not so easy if it's within the laptop itself though.
Or you can download Open Office for free and keep it forever. In use it is very like MSOffice and files are interchangeable between the two. In my view it adds even more to the package than Office, including built-in PDF generator and far superior image program. http://www.openoffice.org/
Not going off topic here I hope, but perhaps if we knew this customers native language there may be a PCIQ professional who can speak the same tongue?
There are also numerous devices out there to transmit audio/video from one wireless station to another. I use one at home that I bought for about a fiver from Aldi, so I can play mp3's on my main computer and listen to them them through a pair of speakers anywhere in the house. I also hook it up to my hi-fi in the lounge for serious listening!
Give it back to your friend until he can make it operational for you. Only that way can you see that you are actually getting something that works. All the refurbished machines that I sell on are fully operational, loaded with O/S, Anti-V and broadband ready. All a buyer has to do is watch it boot up and they know that what they're buying is going to work for them.
PCIQ - Please eradicate this blatant abuse of this forum asap!
Could it be that the engineer set you up with an online backup utility with Packard Bell? If so, that would explain what I assume are reminder messages from them to prompt you to back up. Other than that it could be just spam, so if you are satisfied that your back-ups are working correctly through other means (you mention having disks) then ignore the e-mails from PB. I'm only guessing, so please leave more info if we are to guess better!
So, you need either a floppy drive or a CD/DVD ROM drive depending on the nature of your disks. You haven't specified so I can't properly advise!
What response have you had from Acer support?
Yay! Happy customer response! Thanks Lee!
Just watch out for front-panel header connectors that are already wired in single block. Don't assume that the arrangement in the connector is correct as case manufacturers often have no idea which mobo it's going to connect to. Using a fine point (I use a dental probe or scalpel) you can release each wire from it's hole in the connector, then re-arrange them in the order demanded ny your mobo manual. They're not all the same!
Hope this is not a daft reply but have you downloaded and stuck literally to the manual for your mobo? To me it sounds as if the header connections to the panel are mixed up at the very least, and certainly the BIOS is a mess.
What happens if you manually start WMP and then select to play from the music CD? Can you hear sound or not? Does WMP start up or not? Have you recently installed any other player software? Are you on a laptop/desktop if so what spec/model? I could go on asking questions all night but first I need a bit more to go on to give you any answers.
Go here first: http://service1.symantec.com/Support/tsgeninfo.nsf/docid/2005033108162039 Perform the removal, then download AVG Free Anti-Virus from: http://free.avg.com/ Sorted! (I hope)
Hi Chris, Let's set this thing out to get it straight; Does your PC case actually have an intruder switch? Are all cables & connectors snugly fitted? (as was not the case with the floppy drive). Are you booting up with the case fully assembled or is the side off? Have you changed any of the BIOS settings since the PC last worked correctly? Have you added or changed any hardware since the last time it worked correctly? I ask these questions because any of the above, and comments I've made previously all indicate a problem with your BIOS and not neccessarily a dead processor. Naturally if your case isn't fitted with an intruder switch and yet BIOS aborts because of a tamper error then that setting must be wrong and needs correcting. Similarly, if you've changed any hardware inside the case and not reflected those changes in your BIOS settings then it will throw a wobbler. I'm wondering if you can see a command to "Set System Defaults" when you're in the main BIOS menu? If no hardware has been changed since the PC was purchased then saving out of BIOS with the re-set activated should restore all the original settings but BEWARE! If your BIOS is a bit flaky to start with then this could result in killing it completely. The safer way to start would be by progressively going through the BIOS screens and checking that all the parameters appaer to be correct for your system. You can find a typical list of BIOS settings for guidance by Googling for it. P.S. I find the "Plug & Play Operating System?" = "NO" setting to be the hardest one to get my head around!
SO,HOW FAR DO YOU GET THRU' THE BOOT UP NOW?
The good news is that your processor works!
Cause for the warning message is that the chassis was opened e.g. to install new hardware. This status is logged by the BIOS. To clear this BIOS Log you have to enter the BIOS setup. In the main menu you will find PC-Health, Chassis intrusion detect with three options: enable disable reset Please select the reset option to clear the log file. If you want to disable the intrusion switch permanently, just leave the connector on the mainboard open.
If you've got XP /(Vista?) there is a wizard to take you through the process. Go to Start/All Programs/Accessories/System Tools/"Files and Settings Transfer Wizard".
You have a tamper sensor on your case that supposed to stop anyone going in and re-setting the BIOS. This usually happens on business machines that are locked for security reasons. Try taking the CMOS battery out on the motherboard for an hour and then re-seat it, as this can sometimes clear the BIOS and make the machine accessible again, but first check that the battery has some juice left in it. It should be delivering around 3 volts.
Have you checked the CMOS battery for signs of life? If it's been left a year the battery could have drained and all your BIOS settings lost.
Right-click anywhere on your desktop and choose "Properties / Settings" from the window that appears; move the slider to a higher resolution and apply.
Right-click anywhere on your desktop and choose "Settings" from the window that appears; move the slider to a higher resolution and apply.
I would suggest keeping still at all times whilst on the dock, in fact "Sitting on the Dock of the Bay" is ideal. Has anyone else got anything to add to this or am I interpreting it incorrectly?
Hi Sharon, Happy New Year to you! I don't know which technical support is directing you to PCIQ but be assured that we owe no alleigance to any company other than ourselves so it is a bit of a cheek! FYI Microsoft Works and any other software packages you used to run may not neccessarily be automatically restored. Most System Restore utilities only cater for the Operating System and your personal settings, so any third-party software may need to be installed separately from the installation disks supplied with your PC.
Sorry Jenn, but unless you've unwittingly set up restrictions in your firewall or other software there's no reason why you can't see My Space pages the same as before. Check your blocked sites for entries relating to My Space and give them clearance. Also try clearing your cache (visited sites and cookies) then try again. Have you changed the security settings for the internet zone recently? If so reset to default and try that. There is an outside chance that you've picked up a virus. What anti-virus are you using and is it up to date? Have you run a virus check?
Sounds like the old Vista drivers issue. Do you have specific Vista drivers for your camera? If you need them and they aren't available from Windows Update then you need to look at the manufacturers web site and follow instructions from there.
Well let's wait and see. It's all academic anyway unless Terry comes back with more info. BTW this should settle it: http://www.virginmedia.com/help/broadband/troubleshooting/cant-connect-lights.php I believe they can diagnose the state of a cable modem if it's powered up and connected to their line, but if that diagnosis seems wrong to the customer or inconclusive then they should send an engineer.
The first signs can be unexpected shutdowns, Boot-Up errors/failures, BSOD's & things like that. Sometimes a drive will give out without warning so if you recognise any of these symptoms then back up immediately before your drive fails altogether. In other cases the drive may perform for days or weeks with intermittent problems but my advice is don't risk that happening. You say your pc is performing ok, so why the question of a dodgy hard drive in the first place?
In which case Virgin should respond by sending either an engineer or a replacement modem to assist the customer. They don't seem to have done that so I have to assume that they were satisfied with diagnostic tests they ran remotely to test the modem.
Re: "How do you know it is not a modem problem?" Presumably this was checked at the outset of the problem when talking to the service provider?
You could try risking a fiver on a new PCI Network Card. I've had trouble in the past with on-board Ethernet connections and solved them this way.
It just strikes me that as your old drive had "Failed", now your new drive "can't be seen", that the problem could be with your cables/pins/IDE Bus/or other motherboard-related problems.
Calm down Richard, you're getting paranoid. I suggest you relax this weekend and share a glass or two with friends. The second poster could obviously tell from the accent that the first poster's name was "Patel". Nothing untoward about that.
It would be back to this again but hold on! "Put the windows XP HOME edition disk in the CD/DVD drive then restart the computer. On restart the computer will ask you to press any key to boot from the CD. Press a key, do this quickly. Wait a minute for the next screen then select the option to install Windows (press enter, then f8). It will tell you there is already a copy of Windows on the hard drive and ask if you want to repair it. You do not, so press escape to choose that option. At this stage will have the option to delete the partition you created in your previous attempt to install Windows (press D to delete it). Now you have eradicated any trace of the previous installation, just follow the on-screen instructions to install XP Home Edition and there should be no hindrance from any previous edition." If it was a brand new drive and you installed XP from the CD then it must mean that all the devices with incorrect or missing drivers HAVE been found on your laptop so you'd be wasting your time re-installing. You'll have to plod through the exclamation-marked devices in device manager and right-click on one each time, following the prompts to update the driver for each device. If Windows fails to automatically locate the driver either on your machine or on Windows Update then you'll just have to keep searching manufacturer's sites for the correct driver. Once downloaded and installed, the device will then work.
It could be a driver problem after all the massing about you've done. See if this looks familiar:- http://support.microsoft.com/kb/832324/en-us I can't remember whether I've asked this already but the "new" drive you got - is it new or has it been in another pc before? If it's been used before then it may have been set up for all the devices on it's old environment, which would explain the difficulty you're having with detected components. If this were the case then XP must be run from the install disk, preferably BEFORE it boots up in a new pc for the first time! If you do this then you just repair the installation to correct all the hardware problems, but if it's an old drive, not erased, and you've booted it into your laptop, then the best bet is just wipe everything off it and start again with a clean install. I'm not trying to put you off, but often what seems like the most drastic action takes far less time than trying to pick pieces off the problem. After all, there's no data that you need to keep on this drive as it's already been swapped.
Hi John, I know you tried this: "Counterintuitive as it may seem, for each device listed with an exclamation mark in Device Manager you should right click it and then choose the uninstall option. When all the exclamation marks are gone restart the computer. If you have run the setup files then Windows should rediscover all the devices you uninstalled and install them with the correct drivers." and it didn't seem to work, so have you tried booting up the laptop withan XP Installation CD in the drawer and trying the "Repair" option? At this stage I'm really not sure whether this has been suggested earlier in the thread, but it strikes me that you could be trying to install drivers for devices which may not even be present on your computer, and you're stuck in an endless loop. Repairing / re-installing will inspect your devices again and only initialise those present.
Does this error actually prevent you from viewing the page or content that you want to work with or is it just an annoying nuisance? You can turn off script debugging in IE by going to Tools/Internet Options/Advanced/"Disable Script De-bugging (Internet Explorer)" and "Disable Script De-bugging (Other)". That will prevent the error message from being displayed.
Any powered "PC Speakers" should work. Check all the plugs are in the right holes and that you actually have sound coming out (earphones / headset) and check that the mains power source is plugged in and working.
Do you have a USB lead supplied with the camcorder to connect it to a PC? Do you have an installation disk (CD-ROM) that came with it to load drivers? If the answer is yes to both of these questions then it should connect to a PC and you should be able to transfer files. However, you may come unstuck if you have Windows Vista and your camcorder is more that a year or two old, as Microsoft never supplied enough legacy drivers with Vista to make our old peripherals work. Your only chance to find Vista drivers for your device is to check on the manufacturers web site and download from there. Be warned though, I've done this for a client's Lexmark printer and the "Vista driver" still wouldn't work with it!
Looks like you pressed the submit button twice :-)
The real issue with printers is how much you are going to use them. Speed may be important but for me it comes down to the cost of replacement cartridges. before you decide which one to buy and after checking whether the print rate / paper capacity etc meets your requirements, go online and see how much replacement ink cartridges / drums etc are - that may make your decision easier. I rarely find that Epson can be beaten on this issue.
P.S. I successfuly reverted to XP again and everything is fine.
Does Vista allow you to replace it with XP? Probably not, so you'd have to wipe your drive to kill the Vista installation and then install XP from the CDROM. WARNING: Only attempt this if you know exactly what you are doing!! If you get it wrong or if you don't have a genuine XP CD you could completely kill your perfectly good laptop. I know how you feel tho' I also hate Vista. I installed it on my PC only to find that none of my devices or peripherals were supported by Vist drivers - fine if you want your desktop to look like its running in safe mode all the time! Rubbish.
Old battery showing five leds lit and new one showing only three? If the contacts are all clean & not crossed onto one another then the power circuit is knacked on the mainboard, because if anything, the new battery should be more fully charged than the old one. This suggests that the new battery is no longer being charged properly when in situ.
It immediately sounds like a battery failure problem. Is the replacement battery actually "new" or just procured from elsewhere? See if you can check the contacts in the laptop that the battery uses to connect. Is there any dirt / damage / detritus to or on those contacts that could cause a short circuit when the battery is locked in place?
Well observed Michael! I find that half of my customers pay up for a repair with a big grin and then tell me how much they were quoted by the Tech Guys before they found me. I'm not complaining about that, but some of the figures mentioned just takes my breath away.
Just leave it now until you have a working copy of XP Home.
I really can't say that the expression involving two short planks has come anywhere near my conscious psyche John, so don't worry. The only way your machine is able to boot from the corrupt XP Pro installation is because it's booting from the hard disk and NOT the CDROM, which means that you have to re-inspect your BIOS boot-up order and once again make sure that CD is set as 1st. Then, with the XP Home Edition CD in the drawer, re-start your computer and as soon as you see the words at the bottom of the screen telling you to press any key to boot from CD then bring your fingers smartly down in the direction of the keyboard and don't stop before you get there. This should result in your CD whirring into life and yo should be able to then follow Alan's instructions.
Hi John There's no conflicting information really, it's just that there'salways more than one way to skin a cat - especially with computers. Your basic instuction set now you have set BIOS to boot from CDROM first is as before:- Put the windows XP HOME edition disk in the CD/DVD drive then restart the computer. On restart the computer will ask you to press any key to boot from the CD. Press a key, do this quickly. Wait a minute for the next screen then select the option to install Windows (press enter, then f8). It will tell you there is already a copy of Windows on the hard drive and ask if you want to repair it. You do not, so press escape to choose that option. At this stage will have the option to delete the partition you created in your previous attempt to install Windows (press D to delete it). Now you have eradicated any trace of the previous installation, just follow the on-screen instructions to install XP Home Edition and there should be no hindrance from any previous edition. Do you copy?
It's very common now for colour printers to refuse to print anything if even one of the cartridges has run out of ink. Annoying, but often there's nothing you can do other than replace the spent cartridges, even if the dead one is a colour and you only require the black to print.
Well said Alan. Why can't I put it like that? Mind you, when I asked I did get the response "no i dont get a format screen". John, if you do what the man said, it SHOULD work!
LOL - sorry!
You are going to find it much, much harder to do this without a floppy as CD images for boot disks are rare. You will also need image-burning capability on your PC to create one. I still haven't got a satisfactory boot disk for XP/Vista installed on NTFS drives despite numerous attempts to locate one. I used to use something called "Hiren's Boot Disk" for FAT drives with DOS/Win9x but it's useless for NTFS. Just a thought; if you boot from the XP Pro CD can you access the formatting/partition tool from there? If so you could create a new partition and install your XP Home on that.
Oh dear, sorry John, I can see you are really enjoying yourself doing this! If you have the means and the confidence then track down a disk formatting / eraser program that you can run from a bootable disk. Do you have a floppy? If so then "Active Killdisk" will do the job, but be careful where you download it from. Many sites spewed up by google will be heavily infected when searching for free downloads. Try first at C-Net or Majorgeeks.com - they are clean. Do you still feel confident? Kind regards, R
Who's Simon? OK, you need to use a boot disk with disk tools loaded so you can re-format the hard drive before starting all over. At this point you may need to call in a professional?
If I've read this correctly you have a new hard drive? If so you need to wipe it clean & start again with your XP Home installation to erase the stuff XP Pro has left on there. Do you get a "Format" option when you go thru' the install? If so say "YES" as this will wipe the pevious version off.
If I've read this correctly you have a new hard drive? If so you need to wipe it clean & start again with your XP Home installation to erase the stuff XP Pro has left on there. Do you get a "Format" option when you go thru' the install? If so say "YES" as this will wipe the pevious version off.
What a disgrace! That's not business, it's extortion! I also understood that a supplier is bound to hand over installation disks if requested, and I know for a fact that some of them have complied with the request so it seems that they may not be aware of the legal situation themselves, if indeed it is as suggested above.
Nicole, it's important not to panic when a spillage occurs. 99% of the time the laptop is completely recoverable if just left to thoroughly dry. It's more problematic with beer / wine etc. as these leave a sticky residue that van be acidic and eat away your components! If it's not working still, I suggest you remove all the panels etc. around the case (battery, drives, RAM cover, Hard Drive etc.) to open the case up to as much airflow as possible, then leave it overnight on a shelf or raised off the floor in an airing cupboard (not on the tank!). Next morning put all your bits back in, hold your breath and switch on - with luck it will work. Good luck.
We need to know what e-mail client you are using, and exactly how the "files" sent to you appear. Do you have the correct program installed on your PC to open the files being sent to you?
Be very careful deleting anti-virus applications. You should always disconnect from the internet when you do so. Many AV apps hate working alongside others so it's always best to delete one before installing another, but if you hit the internet with no AV protection at all you will instantly fall victim to infection. You need to run a complete virus scan with whatever you've currently got and eradicate any infection. Then disconnect from the internet and replace your AV software (some AV's need special tools to completely remove befor you can install a new one). Once installed, you can re-connect to the internet and download the latest virus definitions and run a check. Same thing applies to Spyware tools.
Too difficult to suggest a price without knowing exactly what's wrong but generally I repair if it cost around £50 to £100 following the customers instruction. I'd say that you may as well go for the replacement board you've found as the cost is comparable, and you just don't know what else is blown on your board.
I have a third-party service supplier who repairs laptop mainboards for me.
Check that your wireless router is set up with DHCP enabled, and that you laptops aquire an IP address automatically. Re-boot all and see if that works.
Sounds like you could run a registry cleaner too. Try Registry Mechanic. Use the free version to see if does any good before spending any money on it.
I think you're meant to type "msconfig". This is the system congiguration utility which shows you what programs are in your start-up groups etc. For more information about what makes up your computer, Everest is a third-party utility you can download for free and it shows you a whole lot more.
Recently installed or used to work but now doesn't? Do the led's blink on the front? Can you hear the disk spinning up? Please try to describe the symptoms in more detail and we'll see if we can help.
Hi William, Did it used to play but has now lost the ability to do so?
Hi Ian, From your description I have a feeling that the headphone socket itself may be at fault. When you plug in your jack it "breaks" the connection to the speakers, but this condition is supposed to reverse when you unplug and the connection "makes" again. It sounds like the socket may have a broken connection or dirt in it? Sounds silly but have you tried wiggling the jack in the socket a little bit to see if it re-connects? It could be a broken solder joint to the D-SUB Realtek HD audio pcb. If you don't want to start stripping it down it's best you get some professional help.
Right, what I 'm saying is that it's not a good idea to delete AVG and install Spybot S&D as an alternative. Does anyone disagree with that?
Can you still see it listed in Start/ Programs/ AVG Free Edition/ Control Centre ? If so just start it up again and it will run. If it's not in your programs group then it's got uninstalled somehow and you'll have to re-install by downloading from Grisoft.
The first thing to do is check all the power leads are in place. Sounds as if the PSU is working but the motherboard is not getting power, possibly due to a connector getting knocked off while you were changing the ram.
Michelle, Spybot S&D is anti-spyware. AVG is anti-virus. I want you to be sure that these two things are completely different and serve different functions. You should not have deleted AVG when installing Spybot, the two work together in perfect harmony protecting your computer from different threats. I would recommend you re-loaded AVG immediately as by deleting it your PC is under constant threat from viruses. Then download whatever anti-spyware you choose.
Carol, having got into safe mode, did you try system restore?
OK Jon, if we accept your diagnosis - what course of action do you recommend to fix it?
You need to restore your Windows installation from the CD supplied or from a directory on your hard drive. I suppose you can't access the "System Restore" function because you need at least safe mode to start it. Sounds as if your installation has become corrupted and the comp is looking for the disk to repair the damage.
You are correct Frank, the trouble seems to be with Ciurry's/ PC World accepting that and not supplying anything beyond remedial-level engineers. If only 10 months old it is definitely under guarantee and the their responsibility. Take it back, dump it on the counter and demand a replacement - it sounds like some of the hardware is up the swanny already.
Yep, nice one Jon - never choose to work with kids or animals!
PS, if you're after a good diagnostic tool then try Everest - http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html
This sounds like the wrong advice to me. If this is e recent purchase and you bought the PC from Curry's without backup copies of the software provided on it, THEY are responsible for supplying you with the disks free of charge!
All I'll say is that I have had bad experiences in the past with Toshiba laptops, whereas Dell have never let me down. £750 would buy you a high-spec Dell that I would trust, but I can't say the same for Toshiba.
Hi Roger, I really need to look at this to get a complete picture. You seem convinced that all the right bits are in place and working so until that can be verified by going "hands on" I must suspect a cracked connection from the USB port to the PCB. This can happen sometimes with the frequent use that these ports get. You may do best to call someone in.
Go here http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/forums/index.cfm?action=showthread&threadid=294163&forumid=23 and download the Norton Removal Tool. The run Ccleaner to tidy everything up.
Looks like a ststem restore is in order. If any of the options offer you this choice then take it, and restore your comp to an earlier time when it worked OK.
I wonder if its possible that you have moved the source directory from it's original location when you inserted the picture into Word. To see if this is the case right-click on the empty frame within the Word page where the photo should be and select 'properties'. You should then be able to see the path to the source folder that Word is trying to access. If you moved the source folder or re-named it since inserting the picture then this path will be wrong. To correct it just replace the picture from file by navigating to where it currently is.
I wonder if its possible that you have moved the source directory from it's original location when you inserted the picture into Word. To see if this is the case right-click on the empty frame within the Word page where the photo should be and select 'properties'. You should then be able to see the path to the source folder that Word is trying to access. If you moved the source folder or re-named it since inserting the picture then this path will be wrong. To correct it just replace the picture from file by navigating to where it currently is.